Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
